|THAILAND 2|
Chiang Mai - 27 Apr '07
|LAOS|
Luang Prabang - 26 Apr '07
Vang Vieng - 18 Apr '07
Vientiane - 13 Apr '07
Pakse - 6 Apr '07
Don Khong - 4 Apr '07
Don Det - 31 Mar '07
|CAMBODIA|
Laos Border - 30 Mar '07
Siam Reap - 23 Mar '07
|THAILAND|
Ko Wai - 27 Feb '07
Ko Chang White Sands
- 20 Feb '07
Ko Chang Lonely Beach
- 16 Feb '07
Ko Chang Lonely Beach
- 12 Feb '07
THE ASIAN TRAVEL DIARY
THAILAND 2 - CHIANG MAI - 27 APRIL, 2007 Back to top
Queen's day, The Garden & pub crawling
In the waiting area of Vientiane Airport we watched our bags being loaded onto the small Laos Airlines plane. To pass the time I read up in the Vientiane Times about a pretty local girl in traditional costume who won the Miss Laos competition the previous day. Then I looked up and a bunch of dignitaries, a camera crew and a girl in traditional costume carrying a bunch of flowers all excitedly walked across the runway. I think it was the president of Laos who had been attending the competition and his crew judging by his photo in the paper.On arrival in Chiang Mai we were able to arrange a free pick up to our guesthouse Eagle House 2 . It was a bit of a shock after 2 months in Laos and Cambodia to see such a developed city. ATM’s and 7-11’s on every corner, fancy cars, and huge billboards advertising the latest electronic goods. After settling into our en-suite basic room for 290 Baht we rambled around town. We managed to make the most of the happy hour in ‘Kafe’ a cosy pub near Tha Pae gate area. Then back to the guesthouse for some food. However reception informed us with no apology that the kitchen was closed even though it was supposed to be open for another hour or so. Disappointed we ventured around the corner to Mr. Burger for a great big yummy cheese burger and proper chips.
The next day we stopped by a wonderful gallery on the far side of the river called La Luna www.lalunagallery.com. There is a wonderful collection of paintings, photography, sculpture, furniture and jewellery from artists based in South East Asia. With our fill of culture and markets we decided it was time for more beer. So in the roof top bar across from Tha Pae gate we enjoyed a few beverages. This funky bar is covered in day glo paint and crusties, which add to the alternative atmosphere. We knocked back a few vodkas while listening to reggae tunes and soaking up the view of the city. We chatted to an array of characters including the American DJ who was unofficially married to his girlfriend but still “digged” the Thai girl Peem from the Chiang Mai Cookery School. Then set off to a rather dull drum and bass night in the Top North Hotel.
It was Queens Day and it was our mission to celebrate. We started the evening by playing pool in the “Amsterdam Bar” in the night market area. After several drinks we got lost and stumbled upon another establishment called “The Underground Bar”. This is where it all went down hill. We were invited in by the resident alcoholics. Then after several more “Singha’s” served by the charismatic Nina we ended up playing darts with some random Canadian backpackers. The darts and beers were flying and suddenly we realised as the shutters went up and the sun beamed through it was definitely time to go. So we got lost yet again and finally stumbled in to bed mid morning!
After a day of recovery with a near death like hangovers we decided to go up the mountains nearby to have dinner. The restaurant was over looking both a waterfall and the city at sunset. As the sun went down the lights lit up the horizon and illuminated the falls. Then out of nowhere a Thai country and western band started to perform at our table complete with cowboy hats and boots. Now if that wasn’t surreal enough a clown emerged beside me offering a balloon sculpted into a poodle. I really thought I was hallucinating and perhaps they had added something to my drink, but no it was real.
After a few days of bad service and being refused dinner at the guesthouse several times we decided to move to our new abode. That evening we walked over to The Garden Chiang Mai. A smiling lady greeted us and showed us to the rooms. Impressed with the cosy atmosphere we decided to stay for dinner. Tim the owner sat down with us for a chat at one of the tables in the garden. Immediately we felt at home. There is a wonderful collection of characters that frequent the guesthouse adding to the vibe of the place. In one evening while listening to one of the bands that play here you may come across; washed up hippies, gamblers, hypnotists, photographers, web designer’s, masseurs, a ladyboy and whose ever else maybe hanging around.
We decided before leaving that we would venture back to the Underground one last time. The problem was though that we had no idea where the hell the place was. So we retraced our steps wandering up and down laneways that looked somewhat familiar. After a couple of hours I realised that in my drunken logic I had written down exactly where the location of the bar was ‘across from the Mae Ping hotel’. On arrival we received a warm welcome from Nina and met the new owners of the bar a lovely Thai girl and an English dude. We had our final game of darts in the bar before heading back to the guesthouse.
Every Sunday evening in Chiang Mai there is a Market which takes over the city. It also happens to pass by the Garden Guesthouse which was handy for us. There is a gentle, almost magical atmosphere; no one is in a hurry. Locals and tourists ambling along from stall to stall. Traditional music and food smells waft through the streets. At one stall we bumped into the Canadian dart playing dread heads again complete with a large Singha Beer in each hand. So we said our goodbye’s both to the Canadians and to Chiang Mai.
LAOS - LUANG PRABANG - 26 APRIL, 2007 Back to top
Whizzing through world heritage
Finally we managed to get out of Vang Vieng. That place just sucks you in and days fly bywithout you even realising. Just 2 days before our Laos visa ran out we arranged for a bus to Luang Prabang. The transfer arrived and drove us the 2 minutes across to where our bus was waiting on the old air strip. Two rather budget conscious Israelis rocked up 10 mins before departure and managed to bargain down there ticket price a couple of bucks while delaying the rest of us.
Finally we got going and soon past Kasi the scenery and winding roads really kicked in. The road zigzagged up and down through mountain range after mountain range. Clouds often hung in valleys and draped like cloth across peaks. The spectacular landscape still did not help the numbing pain in my bum. As we were in the seats at the very back of the bus we felt every little bump and bounce on the road.
We stopped en route and I happily escaped to stretch my legs. I soon realised that the wheel on the bus needed replacing. With only an hours delay and new wheel in place we drove on again towards Luang Prabang. We stopped once more at the side of the road for a toilet break. However with no facilities in sight I crossed my legs for the duration.
7 1/2 hours after leaving Vang Vieng we arrived in Luang Prabang with a full bladder and sore bum. Touts tried to push there business on arrival in the bus station but being Lao they were gentle and polite. So we hopped in one of the Tuk Tuk’s and for a dollar a head arrived at Muong Lao Guesthouse. Located accross from Visoun Temple. Friendly helpful staff showed us to our cosy en-suite a/c room with balcony for $12.
20 minutes before the travel agent closed we managed to book 2 seats for the next day to Chiang Mai costing $85USD plus a $10 departure tax to be paid at the airport. So the next mission was to find a bank that was still open so we could pay the tax. On the Sisavang Rd. beside Nisha’s Indian Restaurant there is a bank that for a 3% charge made a cash advance for us. There was also an ATM outside that accepts Mastercard and Maestro but they charge $4.50 per transaction and you can only withdraw a maximum of 70,000 kip ($70USD) at a time.
Starving we went for a pizza at the popular “Pizza Luang Prabang”. Eating outside we soaked up the atmosphere of this world heritage town. It has a strong colonial influence which is evident in the architecture but this is also mixed in with a traditional lao style. Coming from Vang Vieng it was refreshing to see a lack of neon signs which have been replaced by aesthetically pleasing wooden ones. Knowing that we would return to this beautiful town I didn’t feel guilty for replacing the heritage sights for a large slice and a beer lao. Next time we can do the cultural stuff, this time it was back to the guesthouse for a much needed rest.
LAOS - VANG VIENG - 18 APRIL, 2007 Back to top
The Rising Sun & hazy mountain peaks
On the bus to Vang Vieng I woke to dramatic scenery enveloping us on all sides. We passed sheer drops, blue hued mountain peaks and small villages before finally reaching Vang Vieng. On arrival we drove through an old airstrip built by the CIA during the ‘secret’ Indochinese war. Mainly built to accommodate its own airline ‘Air America’ used to smuggle opium and mercenaries around Laos. Now it has a few market stalls and used as a bus depot for tourists.We walked across to Babylon Guesthouse and settled into a $6.50 en-suite double room over looking the main road. Nick the eccentric English manager showed us to our room where the house rules are laminated and stuck on the wall “We reserve the right to be rude, be abusive, not care, be obnoxious, bigoted, racist, homophobic, hetrophobic, agoraphobic, alcoholic, anti ginger, anti Welsh, anti religion, anti atheist, and offer poor customer service to the point of physical violence”. I thought it summed it up quite well.
Nick had recommended us to visit the Rising Sun bar, while also informing us of the stupidity tax which is in place. He explained for stupid tourists who wish to smoke the local ‘produce’ in public there is a fine by the police of $500. The bar entices you into a drinking session and soon we found ourselves downing a bucket containing tiger whisky and coke while playing a game of pool. The pool tables are levelled by bits of cardboard on each leg which may have contributed to the fact that I actually won a game.
After a hearty breakfast we decided to walk towards the seductive karst peak mountains. Firstly we negotiated a bouncy bamboo bridge to get to the island. Then we walked up the stony shore of the Xong River to the toll bridge. The bridge is decorated with 2 left over bomb shells at the entrance. They serve as small reminders that this country is the most heavily bombed nation per capita in history. Lonely Planet tell us that for 9 years between 1964 and 1973 “this cost US taxpayers around $2 million per day”.
A sign pointing to the caves explained that this was a place of refuge during the war. Following a narrow path through the heavy jungle we arrived at the caves. We didn’t spend too long as it was getting late and more beer Lao was calling. On our return the glowing sunset sky made the landscape constantly change colour. Insects buzzed and jungle sounds echoed from the sheer cliffs. Long shadows followed us on the way back through the dried up paddy fields.
On our return we were offered a shot of ‘snake’ Lao Lao a rice whisky which is served from a bottle complete with cobra inside, of course I couldn’t refuse. That night the gods put on a show for us, with a spectacular display of thunder and lightening which we watched from the roof of Babylon accompanied by 2 bottles of Beer Lao.
After a recovery breakfast we rented a bike and headed to the hills again. We drove over bumpy stony roads towards ‘Python cave’. As the sun set it cast a warm hue over the landscape. We crossed a bridge so rickety and skinny I thought it safer to wade through the shallow stream while Ali took the bike across. Smiling kids shouted ‘SABAIDI’ (hello) from all directions as we passed through a small ‘ban’ or ‘village’. Then it was time for our daily dose of the rising sun. Buckets and pool games later we were invited to sit with the stonies on the sofa until the early hours.
To cure the hangover we headed out of town again, this time in the direction of Louang Prabang on Route 13. Towards the Kasi district a sharp winding road weaved through dramatic mountains. In the shadow of the towering mountain a cool breeze acts as natural air conditioning. Further en route we passed soldiers or rebels perhaps? Carrying AK47’s. However they looked completely harmless just chilling on the side of the road and showing off there guns to 2 giggling girls. We stopped to visit a temple and on the way down a local girl carrying a bag on her head posed for the camera. She was utterly amazed to see herself on the digital camera screen, perhaps for the first time?
After another hard day sight seeing and adventuring at the lagoon we had another hard nights drinking. We were offered by ‘Toto’ a local tuk tuk driver to drink green Lao Lao. It would have been rude and wiser to refuse. To add to this English regular was passing around beer lao chasers. Then another local character joined our table and it all went down hill from there. As the clock struck curfew time the music was switched off, much to the annoyance of Toto who was cursing and asking “why no Boom Boom?” After a colossal amount of the toxic green liquor we decided that we needed just one more beer. The next morning I woke in a death like state and it took a few days of detox before venturing back to the bar again.
LAOS - VIENTIANE - 13 APRIL, 2007 Back to top
Great food & lots of water in the year 2550!
Minutes after leaving the refuge of our hotel we were greeted by a group of young smiling kids shouting “pi mai lao!” ( Happy Laos New Year!) proceeded by a bucket of water being thrown over us both. Drenched we walked a few more paces before a similar incident took place with water guns this time. This was typical of our stay in the tiny capital of Laos, Vientiane (population only 200,000) during its New Year celebrations. To ring in the new year people shower each other with water and they take it very seriously. It is also based on a Buddhist calendar hence we were able to travel through time to the year 2550.Not only is there plenty of water but the food was great too. Being an ex French colonial capital the restaurants and café’s boasted mouth watering menu’s with a strong French influence. After downing a couple of G & T’s by the Mekong riverside we decided to indulge ourselves on the highly recommended Cote d’Azur restaurant. It is run by a large French chef and his petite Laos wife. They serve fine French cuisine, pizza’s for the backpackers and great selection of red wine. At home it would be the type of establishment that would cause your wallet to disintegrate by merely walking through the door. However the main courses here averaged €5. It was just a pity the intolerable backpacker clientele did not live up to the food.
For lunch we soon became regulars in JoMa Cafe and the Scandinavian Bakery. JoMa served foot long French baguettes with your choice of filling. The Scandinavian offering a similar selection of fresh sandwiches and pastries. However its staff really got into the spirit of New Year by hosing us both while seated outside. Alex cunningly got his revenge by throwing his glass of water over the girl much to the other staff’s delight.
This deserted capital by night simply exploded with water by day. Madness ensues. The street filled with pick ups carrying gangs armed with water bombs, guns and buckets. The uniform Hawaiian shirts and straw hats. Passing a corner you see a slightly tipsy group dancing to blaring pop music with water gun in hand completely saturated. Approaching a wat or temple is like entering a war zone. Bouncy castles and music is blaring beside the statues of Buddha. People paying there respects by throwing buckets of water on the statues. Water guns everywhere.
At one of the bigger temples we got talking to a couple of young monks who explained it was a time of renewal and rebirth no matter if the year was good or bad you can celebrate at a new beginning. They wrapped bracelets around our wrists made from orange thread and blessed us with good luck, good health, and happiness. The positive energy exuding from the monks left me with a warm feeling.
The next night we went to Fathima Indian restaurant on the riverfront. They offered a vast selection of curries at a cheap price most courses being €1. The lady who runs this restaurant really reflects the nature of Laos people. As the restaurant is located in the height of the celebrations in the city she was busy from early in the morning serving tourists all day. It was around 10.30 when we were finishing up and a psychotic French man refused to pay the few dollars he owed. He then proceeded to be rude and obnoxious to both her and her young family. In response she calmly showed the man the bill again. He stormed out without paying. Instead of getting annoyed she just laughed and turned around and sat down to help an expat hippy improve his Laos language skills with a smile.
LAOS - PAKSE - 6 APRIL, 2007 Back to top
Bolaven Plateau & Waterfalls
We took advantage of the free wireless at the Pakse hotel to register our domain and get this website up and running. Pakse is a sleepy town which has a certain charm as the Lonely Planet guide puts it "The centre of Pakse retains the sort of Mekong River-town lethargy". It became apparent this was contagious as we kept extending our stay much to the delight of the French Hotel manager and his Laos wife. (Apparently it is illegal to have a relationship with a foreigner here until married)
Eventually we dragged ourselves away from the screen and went on a day trip to explore the nearby Bolaven Plateau. Once past the traffic a scenic rural landscape unfolded and soon we approached the turnoff for the Phasoume Resort & waterfalls. There was a small entrance fee and no charge for parking. The entrance obliviously went to good use as the grounds were impressively well kept. Wooden signs pointed us in the right direction as well as the gushing sound of the waterfall itself.
A picturesque fragile bamboo bridge lies in front of the falls and we stopped to take in the impressive view. They have also built a wooden platform for the optimal photo opportunities which a large animated Japanese tour group were taking full advantage of. So we decided to explore another side of the parkland wandering through a ‘tribal village’ although sounding contrived it isn’t and it aims to integrate ethnic tribal groups with tourism in a positive, informative way. Although I did have a problem with the caged animals on display including a young gibbon and a chained young elephant.
There was another waterfall which looked so perfect it seemed man made and later I learned that it had been ‘enhanced’. The lack of tourists in this section was refreshing. Slices of wooden trunks were laid out as stepping stones making it easier to explore the jungle terrain. After lunch my pale Irish skin had turned a deep red colour so I had to buy a t-shirt to cover up, however it was the ultimate touristy one ‘ I was in Champasak Province yes very beautiful’ was printed in large letters much to my embarrassment.
Further down the road we turned off for the Tad Fan falls. Again we heard the falls before we could see them. We peered out from a rickety wooden fence to look at the view. Wow. Parallel streams flow down 120 meters to the pool below. The strong current smacking the rocky shelf half way before descending further into a misty cloud. I stood mesmerised following one splash all the way down. We went to the restaurant balcony and zoned out on the view over lunch.
2 km further there is another waterfall called Tad Yuang. On arrival you first pass the top of the waterfall with pretty bridges leading to islands with grassy banks that invited further exploring. Once you walk down a few steps the view slaps you with its intense beauty. To the right is a canyon deeply forested with peaks either side. A deep green haze spread towards the horizon. Halfway down there are seats built on a shelf all made of bamboo attached to a tree so tall it touched the sky. There is a strong mystical feel here a place perhaps in which fairy stories are born. On the journey back the sun was burning orange as it set behind the purple hued mountain.
To finish the day we stopped at the Delta Cafe for a beer. Alex more hungry than I was ventured out for food later, to the amazing Indian restaurant ‘Jasmin’. Unfortunately he was approached by a suicidal Slovenian who he couldn’t escape from for some time as beers kept appearing. The restaurant seems to attract these types of odd characters and swarms of hippy’s gather from the nearby backpackers also.
After the long day it was nice to be able to escape to our $19 dollar luxury room (with breakfast, a/c, ensuite and did I mention free wifi!) Tasteful archive photos in black and white adorn the walls and hand woven material in brown and rusty orange colours hang adding a cosy feel to the place while local wood carvings and wicker baskets are scattered throughout the lobby.
Finally it was time to leave Pakse and we booked an overnight VIP bus to Vientiane the capital of Laos which was a 10 hour bus journey away. However this VIP bus came with hostess to greet you and show you to your seat, supply you with free drinks and a tasty rice meal. While eating we watched a subtitled movie from our reclining seats with leg rests and wrapped ourselves in the blankets provided. The lights and screen went out for the night and I slept soundly for the remainder of the journey until the hostess woke us with fresh cold towels. This was the longest yet the easiest bus journey of our travels so far.
LAOS - DON KHONG - 4 APRIL, 2007 Back to top
The Big Island, Mekong adventures & a wedding arrangement
We waved goodbye to 'Mama' and Don Det while waiting at Mr. Pho's boat to the mainland. So the chartered boat with roof we arranged for turned out to be a skinny longtail with a compulsary extra passanger. We all sailed accross the few minutes to mainland jetting past sandbanks and narrow channels once again. Then waited only a few minutes until the next boat to arrive. All aboard plus roof this time all cosy and crowded on the cramped wooden planks. 10 minutes later headng towards the direction of "The Big Island" the engine suddenly decided that it had enough and conked out. However the Mekong at this point is a couple of miles wide and there are giant concrete pillars in the middle as guides and we were heading straight for them in a very strong current with no engine. Suddenly you realise there are no lifejackets and you probably would have great difficulty in swiming against the current to the shore.
I clutched either side of the boat and hoped for the best as the boat driver began to get agitated as he desperately tried to start the engine. The other guide shouting in Laos grabbed a wooden pole and started to try and steer the boat towards the sandy shoreline. After a few nail biting minutes we docked at the shoreline and waited for help to arrive. After a bit of paddling in the Mekong and chilling with the buffaloe to pass the time. Another boat arrived and the guys swapped the engine for a less powefull cc ciphoned the gas and we were on the way once again. However even though surrounded by idylic scenery I remained a little tense while we nearly missed crashing into rapids, bolders and strong currents. I have to admit I was glad to arrive at "The Big Island" although the boat did pass several stairways the driver decided to pull up at the muddiest possible point and we had to scramble to the top on hands and knees.
We booked into the first place we saw the Don Khong Guesthouse. It was a nice colonial style building with communal balcony with photos of the hotel owners family hanging on the wall. That evening a storm hit out of no where and outside clouds of dust blew and people fled for cover. The rain stopped just long enough for us to reach a restaurant for dinner where we met up with an odd German couple and swaped travel stories. Later we grabbed a few cans of heino from the fridge and played cards for the evening and of course I lost and had to get the next round. We explored the island by bike the next day and passing temples, fields, shacks and more water buffaloe. Stopping to enjoy the sunset on a bench by the river we were soon surrounded by a swarm of villagers of all ages from granny's with no teeth, kids, babies and smiling local women. As no one had any english the local teacher was sent for to translate for us. She asked if I had any brothers and told us that she didn't have a boyfriend but was quite keen on European men! So we arranged that my brother go over to the island and mama will arrange a big wedding but not to worry as it won't cost much its very cheap in Laos for a wedding!
The next day I woke to a note at our door from the English couple who had been travelling with us since Cambodia to say they had sped off to Savanakhet. I guess they weren't too impressed with the wedding arrangements or the low key Island life perhaps. Later we had a wander down to the posh end where all the fancy hotels were and popped in to the Muong Khong Hotel. The President of Laos Mr. Siphandon who has the same surname as the region, stays on the island but no one knows where? However if I had to put money on it I would say it was at this hotel. While enquiring about tickets to Pakse, friendly helpful staff were gently explaining that the local bus to pakse would not be comfortable for us big westerners and better to get a VIP Minibus instead. So in the air conditioned reception we booked our VIP tickets from the well trained smiling manager.
This time the journey from the island was quite different. On arrival at the posh hotel the next morning the sturdy boat was ready and waiting for us with a roof and curtains to bring us accross to the mainland. For the first time we were the only passangers on board. Once docked our bags were carried to a bench in the shady waiting area - this actually lived up to the VIP status and I was loving every minute. The bench overlooked the rocky mekong with small grassy islands and purple hued mountains as a backdrop. While we waited the 3 locals laughed probably at us while making a fishing net. Our modern comfy minibus arrived and I dozed in the luxury of the spacious backseat which drove us all the way to the front door of the Pakse Hotel where the charming staff greeted us.
LAOS - DON DET - MARCH 31, 2007 Back to top
Mama, Mr Happy & Four Thousand Islands
On the banks of the Mekong we waited for our skinny longtail boat to arrive under a make shift shack to hide from the afternoon sun. The mesmerising Mekong scenery soon made up for the cramped longtail boat journey. We passed tiny green islands reflected in the tranquil waters and navigated through a maze of sandbanks and narrow streams some seemed only ankle deep, until we reached our final destination ‘Don Det’. Coming from Cambodia I was expecting hoards of touts to await us however no one seemed too bothered that some tourists had arrived as the boat pulled up to the small beach. On arrival the pace of life seems to have gone back a few notches and you feel a wave of relaxation wash over you.
It was getting dark and the island only has electricity for a few hours in the evening so we decided to check into the unappealing guesthouse with an en-suite western toilet for the night. Only a few minutes into the bungalow I looked up and backed out of the room slowly. I showed the lady who had checked us in a brown spider that was the size of my hand and she laughed and walked away. A few minutes later she returned with a broom .It took several whacks of the broom to kill the creature. With no hesitation she picked the creature up in her hand and dangled it in front of me much to Alex's and her delight.
Meanwhile the English couple noticed what looked like a chocolate biscuit in their room which was stuck to the shoddy curtain and poked at it. It opened and fell to the floor it was full of maggots that then began to crawl over the floor. When they returned from dinner the ants had started to eat the maggots. We all decided it was our mission to get the hell out of there first thing the next morning. However my other plan was to get very drunk so armed with cans of Beer Lao ( the only beer brewed in Laos) we sat on the porch in the darkness with eccentric characters and discussed the meaning of life and how to live it until the wee hours of the morning and I hit my bed snoring.
The next morning the English couple had risen early to check out accommodation and recomeded a place called ‘Mama’s Rasta Cafe’ with recognisable by the inflatable fish hanging outside. So with bags packed we happily escaped to the refuge of our new abode. On arrival I was greeted by the burly Mama with a hearty laugh and a smack on the arse her way of being friendly. Her character made our stay in Don Det. She was our adopted Mama for the duration of our stay and the bungalow our home rather than just a place to stay. Being a hammock junkie I immediately fell in love with the communal balcony that displayed several hammocks overlooking the Mekong and the other uninhabited islands close by. Underneath the balcony is where Mama kept her beloved pigs which she often untied and squealing threw into the water for fun and our amusement as we looked on.
Eventually we stirred from the comfort of our hammocks and rented bicycles to explore the island. We headed towards the bridge which used to be an old railway line in the French Colonial days now it is used as a toll bridge to get to the other island of Don Khon. After lunch we cycled to the waterfall. We weren’t expecting much as it was dry season however nicely surprised as it was spectacular. Several streams splash down rocky cliffs and over boulders to the river rapids. Meanwhile truckloads of Thai tourists in authentic bamboo hats and big cameras snapped away at each other enthusiastically. So much so that Alex got swept into a photo with a whole Thai family with a backdrop of the waterfall. As the sun was low in the sky the scenery really came to life and the sound of the gushing water was captivating.
That evening we discovered the ‘Reggae Bar’. It is tucked back from the road down a short pathway where sleeping bodies were lying outside under a mosquito net. We sat at a table amid the drunkenness and ordered a Vodka & Tonic. Mr. Wath otherwise known as Mr. Happy showed us the ‘happy’ menu. (‘happy’ on a menu in Laos normally means that there is some weed or other intoxicating substance in whatever your eating or drinking) on the menu among the usual stuff happy shakes, happy cakes etc. was a happy wedding party for $150, hangover breakfast including 500mg of paracetemol and 5mg of valium and for and for a little extra they will make anything 'happy' for you. As all electricity is run for only a few hours from generators every time someone ordered a shake the music died and the lights dimmed. Soon the candles came out as the generator was shut down for the night and a French girl started strumming on her guitar and sang sweetly to a hushing crowd, within minutes everyone was silent mesmerised by the music. We all had happy dreams that night.
CAMBODIA - LAOS BORDER - 30/03/07 Back to top
The road to Laos
The border crossing from Cambodia to Laos seemed a very simple task but how naive we were. We spent one night in Kratie to recover from the crazy karaoke bus ride from Phnom Penh (all buses in Cambodia come equipped with nonstop ear exploding Asian Karaoke music) and arrange onward travel. We were told by the hotel manager it was better to pay an extra dollar to get one less boat journey for the crossing. Stupidly we took his advice.
The following morning a quality minibus with a/c arrived at the hotel to transfer us onto another bus which would bring us to the town of Strung Treng. That was the last time we would see decent transport for a long time.
I looked at our new vehicle it had a tower of goods strapped with rope on the roofrack that was equal in height to the actual minibus. I squeezed past the locals, sat in the back seat beside the window that didn’t open and waited. There was no air conditioning. More goods and people kept arriving. The cramped sweltering bus stopped whenever it had the opportunity to collect even more people and goods. The 15 seater now had expanded somehow to hold 19 sweaty individuals and a ton of goods on the roof.
With great relief we disembarked at a guesthouse a couple of hours later in Strung Treng. I should have known better but thought foolishly that the worst of the journey was over. The man greeted us with menus and said we were to wait 1 hour.
The 4 of us were rounded up and escorted to the car ferry terminal. Once on board we waited yet again.The ferry was made of black steel acting like a radiator in the midday sun. So much so that the soles of my black rubber sandals began to melt. So we hid in a sliver of shade beside a pick up truck. After 45 mins waiting it took 5 mins to cross.
Apparently there was a car to bring us to the boarder but that was thoughtfully parked at the top of a rather steep hill. So we picked up our now sizzling black packs and sweated and gasped to the top. Alex opened the cardoor and this local lady who was a complete stranger dived in past and made herself comfortable in the passengers seat. Our jovial escort had vanished at this stage. The four of us were a little concerned as to how 4 rather large westerners were to fit into the backseat of the car. I am sure this was not included in the price of the ticket.
The driver laughed and pointed at us to get in. It was either that or swim to the boarder so we squished ourselves in and got closer to Ben & Becky than I had originally anticipated. Then before we took off another local lady got in the front seat to our amazement. There was now a total of 7 in the car with no air-conditioning. Imagine a fully clothed smelly sauna and you get the picture.
So again innocently I believed the 2 women would get out in a few minutes and everything would be ok. My optimism failed me. We turned down this rough potholed road with sharp dips and hills that you would expect fit only for a 4 wheel drive jeep but our driver had no problem in speeding along in his Toyota Camry with 7 people in the car. Body parts gyrated whilst my legs were pinned underneath Becky who at this stage was lying across all 3 of us in the back with her feet stuck out the window. I looked out and we were in the middle of nowhere. Had I really paid extra for this privilege?
The car rolled back and the placid driver looked under the bonnet, unscrewed the cap of the radiator, and water violently exploded past us. Could this really be the road to the Laos? Eventually the engine cooled and it made it across the steep hill. Several bumps and bruises later we arrived at the border the joy I felt was indescribable knowing I would never have to face that Toyota Camry again.
At the unofficial border the driver had to call the ‘officials’ over from there slumber and go to the shack which was immigration. There was nobody around. They collected their $1 tip and stamped our passports and smiled. Then we crossed into no mans land which consisted of a bar, a game of boules and a shack. You could immediately feel the pace of life go into reverse the closer you got to the Laos side. The tiny shack for Laos immigration was also unmanned due this time to the game. Two men came over one in a police T-Shirt the other just in casual clothes to stamp our passports and also ask for a small tip. Later I found that my passport was stamped with a date of 29th March and Alex was stamped with a date of April 28th – it was March 30th ? Welcome to Laos.
CAMBODIA - SIAM REAP - 23/03/07 Back to top
Blog – I’ve been Ankored
Yes miracles to happen I did actually get up at 5.45 am to catch the 7am speedboat ferry up Tonle Sap Lake from Phnom Penh to Siam Reap. The boat was similar to the one I took in Sihanoukville minus the Monks and was smooth sailing.En route the river slowly widened further and further until we were in the centre of the lake and could see nothing on the horizon except filthy brown water and a few fishing boats. Then we started to see lots of birds flying overhead some I had never seen before and buffalo along the edge of the water some grazing contentedly from the water while there owners baked in the heat and worked the paddy fields and some locals rummaged in the mud along the riverbank for what scraps they might find.
Being the end of dry season the water level is at its lowest so to navigate the rest of the passage we had to jump onboard another boat midwater. Now that doesn’t seem so bad but then add stupid tourists juggling oversized baggage, swarms of locals in boats that came from the huge floating village nearby to sell us bananas and cans of coke ’’no’ was a word they refused to comprehend and persistently placed food and drink items in our face while navigating onto the other boat. They were like acrobats jumping from one boat to the next to get there sale.
We passed the colourful water police station built on bamboo stilts in the water with a giant colourful sculpture of a bird on top of the roof. I doubt if much official work was done here if any. Then came the school the classrooms again built over the water and a large colourful building including volleyball court on the rooftop and playful kids swam in the water underneath in the shade.
The helpful Tuk Tuk driver in Phnom Penh called his friend to collect us from the boat and had a sign already for us “MR Alex” and were driven in a a/c car the 5 km to Siam Reaps centre where we stayed at our lovely Guesthouse with swimming pool and hammocks. That evening we set out for the temples and visited the main site Ankor Wat for a cloudy sunset.
3 hours passed with us exploring the vast impressive site. Climbing narrow stairs, dark passage ways and discovering ancient Buddha statues covered in orange cloth and burning incense sticks. Buddist nuns in white robes knelt in front of the statues and chanted to Buddah while Buddist Monks in Orange robes wandered around the site as if almost posing for tourist pictures. Swarms of tourists congregated around there guide translating and Japanese tourists were plenty ladened down with huge cameras.
The next day we did the small circuit visiting Ankor Thom, Ta Keo the temple mountain that was struck by lightning and Pol Pots explosives & Ta Prom the tree engulfed temple that is left to the Jungle before the exhaustion finally set in.
Then again the following day we were back on the Tuk Tuk temple trail and visited the grand tour circuit. Including Preah Khan, Neak Prom temple lake (but was dry), Ta Som, East meborn Temple Mountain that is covered in animal statues, the impressive Pre Rup Temple Mountain where you can see vast plains and Jungle from the top and finally the ruins of Banteary Kdei. So with 10 temple sites in 2 ½ days under our belt we decided to call it quits and retired to the swiming pool at the guesthouse for the rest of the day.
As it is too pricey to fly to Laos from Siam Reap we decided to do the overland route so we are now back in Phnom Penh where we are making our way up by the Asian Karaoke blaring bus to the unofficial Laos border crossing in North East Cambodia via the town of Kratie where there are rare dolphins in Mekong River. We are going to stay in the 4,000 islands ‘Don Det’ in Laos where electricity runs for only a few hours a day so I doubt if I will be emailing for a while. Take care and let me know how your all doing.THAILAND - KO WAI - FEBRUARY 27, 2007 Back to top
Paradise
I am just back from paradise! last few days we spent in Ko Wai a tropical island 3km long by 1.5 km wide, no roads, electricity on occasion and only 2 resorts we stayed beside 'paradise resort' in 'Coral' the slightly posher one at 14euro per night for the ensuite room.
Our bungalow a few paces from the prestine golden shore and sparkling clear sea. There is so little on the island you cannot be but relaxed. Your day is broken up by snorkling in the sea ( amazing kalesdiscope of colour and shapes of coral and fish just a few meters from the shore) , lounging over lunch, reading in the sun and maybe an afternoon snooze. There are numerous small idyllic beaches here and you can go exploring by trekking a few minutes along the dirt path thruogh the coconut trees or by sea kayak to find your own deserted beach, pure bliss. Ko Wai is probably the most amazing place I have visited so far for pure beach heaven.
An hours boatride back to the fishing village of Bangbao and we were back on Ko Chang soil again. It was to say the least 'interesting' to get off the boat; first I climbed from our boat to another boat then as the pier was too high there was no plank accross so I had to climb up 2 giant tyres, that were dangling on a piece of string and helped by 2 boatmen to reach the pier, it was not a glamourous exit to say the least! Coming from the quiet tiny island this seemed like a bustling New York and took a few moments to readjust before hopping in the back of a pickup to the largest town on the Island 'White Sands' where we are now.
The next few days doing our preparations for departure to Cambodia, the joy of getting extra malaria tablets, negotiation dollar rates and getting funny passport photos. But why not do these mundane things from the comfort of 'White Sands' where our bungalow is only a few meters away from the golden shoreline which stretches over 3.5km! Lovely listening to the waves at night and watching sundown from the balcony.
Well will update you again soon before travels to Cambodia bye for now. PS hope the weather isn't too bad!! its only 30 degrees here ; )
THAILAND - KO CHANG (White Sands) - FEBRUARY 20, 2007 Back to top
Boat trippin' and sea kayaking
The last couple of days have involved some serious drinking and I have to admit it's hard to keep up! So we have decided on a detox to another tiny tropical island of Ko Wai for some rest and recuperation for the next few days.
On board the 'magic garden' boat trip which basically an excuse for a booze cruise. There was 10 crates of beer, cocktails served in enormous buckets, music, warm sea, beaches, sun and 24 thirsty travelers mixing it all together you get one hell of a party, and one hell of a hangover to match!
So yesterday we decided that we would have to take it easy but that never seemed to happen either. We now of course know all the locals and are practically part of the furniture at the 'nature rocks' bar sipping jungle juice with the Sweedes. Anyway for our last night some of the staff had a fireshow of twirling firesticks on beach really amazing display not sure how they didn't burn themselves and very glad I didn't try.
THAILAND - KO CHANG (Lonely Beach2) - FEBRUARY 16, 2007 Back to top
Still lazing in Ko Chang
So we're still lazing in the sunshine on Lonely Beach, Ko Chang. Yesterday we rented a Sea Kayak for the day and paddled out across to the tiny island 'Ko Man Nai' where there was a small stretch of sand dotted with shells and 1 or 2 other Scandinavians for good measure. The Sweeds being the dominant tourist in Ko Chang. The landscape straight from a Japanese watercolour painting. We explored the warm bath-like shallow waters for shells before paddling across to another long sandy beach for a refreshing drink then back to base for dinner.
Have started to meet a few 'local' expat barmen 'Steve' the burly barman from OZ , serving up buckets of cocktails, the friendly guy from Hong Kong and the Cheeky thai skater dudes, who have been plying us with drinks and trying to get us both to go on there boat trip. So after seeing the people staggering back from the boat trip ranting and raving about how great it was, we have decided to take the plunge so tomorrow we head out to a couple of the islands ( there are aroud 50 islands in the area) for snorkling swimming and I maybe persuaded to have one or two drinks!! You can feel the Irish have been here before as even the barman from Hong Kong has a few words of Irish - 'Slainte', 'Conas ata tu?'. We were also introduced to 'Jungle Juice' which is Thai Vodka (cheaper and nastier than Samsung rum) with leaves of some sort left to marinade overnight before being served in shots to unsuspecting Sweeds.
Then we plan to head out to Ko Wai which is another island to the south of Ko Chang it only has 3 places to stay and electricity only runs for a couple of hours in the evening so that should be interesting! But the postcards perfect blue waters are aparently perfect for snorkling and swiming so am really looking forward to that.
We were watching the sunset earlier sink into the sea, over dinner and a few beers....what can I say but life is really sweet. Cheers for now
THAILAND - KO CHANG (Lonely Beach1) - FEBRUARY 12, 2007 Back to top
Landed in Ko Chang Island
Hello/ Sawadee kah!Well after an early rise a 5 hour minibus ride, 45 min ferry and 30 min ride in a pick up we finally arrived at Lonely beach, Ko Chang only to find all accommodation was full ! So the only option was to stay a luxury resort right on the sea, with a pool that melts into the horizon and gently shaded by coconut palms, oh well it’s a hard life! And it set us back a whole 20 euro including a full breakfast!!
I must say it’s a bit of a struggle getting used to the island life waking up having tasty food served to you. then strolling along a golden sandy beach with the warm waves lapping at your feet, anyway I could continue to torture you all but must resist.
Ko Chang is quite a mountainous island and has jungle interior so great sounds at night. There is only one road looping the circumfrance of the island and to get around we have been using ‘taxis’ which are really pick ups which drive at angles you think are not humanly possible and with an open back to them it can get a bit hairy at times so its wise to hold on tight!! It is quite developed as Thais are taking advantage of the tourist boom but still nothing as bad as some places have been to and the island is big enough to find a quiet or more chilled spot. Lonely beach where we have based ourselves is a commercialized hippy village with some really funky bars and café’s. The Treehouse is the main spot which is built on wooden stilts right next to the rocky shoreline, you sit on low chairs and cushions while sipping the local ‘singha’ beer and eating your favorite dish from home (whether it is a lasagna or toasted cheese they will cater to your craving ) and watching the sun go down.
Last night we ate at a wonderful Italian restaurant in white sands beach but it was right next to a bar full of Thai ‘girls’ calling after every boy that passed, I think Alex quite enjoyed the experience. The waiters all dressed in white suits and black bow tie, and looking after your every need, an ice cold flannel on arrival etc. We had a mouth watering pasta with a creamy mushroom sauce washed down with a nice red and finished off with a illy Cappuccino! Sometimes it is difficult to realize you’re in Thailand.
I have been eaten alive by mosquitos as usual ( Alex has not been bitten once!!) I now look like a leper with all the red spots on my legs so I have found a new religion it is called ‘mosquit’ and I now worship repellent and all things that stop mosquito's biting me and the mossie net is my temple!
We will be based here for a couple of weeks exploring the island and will be in touch with the next update soon. Hoping to do a bit of sea kayaking and maybe elephant trekking or perhaps sailing around the islands we’ll see. That's all for now folks
AUTHOR: V. Taylor
EMAIL:vourneen@ourechoes.com
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